Day #2: Gold Mines and Stargazing

Adventures in the Nulllabor
We awoke on the second morning of our trip still traversing the Nullabor. If requested, the attendants will bring you a pot of wake-up tea at a time you specify. Today was a start on the earlier side so that we could see the gold mining town of Kalgoorlie.After a hearty breakfast we arrived in Kalgoorlie, mid-morning. We took a bus to the Super Pit, followed by a bus tour of the town. The tour was a bit brief, so we have added a bit more information about Kalgoorlie






The Super Pit
The KCGM Superpit, located in Kalgoorlie, Western Australia, is one of the largest open-cut goldmines in the world, and a landmark of the Goldfields region. Approximately 3.5 kilometers long, 1.5 kilometers wide, and more than 600 meters deep, the Super Pit is a dramatic reminder of Kalgoorlie's rich gold mining heritage. It was formed in 1989 through the amalgamation of numerous smaller underground operations into a single vast open pit, allowing for the large-scale extraction of gold. From the Super Pit lookout visitors are treated to an awe-inspiring view of one of Australia's most famous mining landmarks. It offers a safe vantage point to watch massive haul trucks crawling like ants along winding roads, transporting ore from the pit floor to the surface. Open year-around, it offers a glimpse into both the pioneering spirit of the early gold rush and the modern technology driving today's mining industry. Next to the lookout is the bucket of one of the excavators, showing the scale of the mining machinery. [Note: there are additional pictures of the equipment in the virtual tour, listed below] Indian Pacific also offered a tour of the underground mines for those less claustrophobic!





Aerial View of the Super Pit
 Komatsu PC800 Bucket
 Komatsu PC 800
 Catepillar Haul Truck



Video of KCGM Super Pit Lookout

Kalgoorie:

Touring Kalgoorlie
 Kalgoorlie, located in Western Australia, is a historic mining town rich in gold rush heritage and natural beauty. Known for it striking red earth landscapes and wide blue skies, Kalgoorlie has a unique charm blending rugged outback and classic Australian architecture. The town itself is dotted with heritage buildings, historic pubs, and museums that echo the region's vibrant history of fortune seekers and pioneers. Many are found on Hannan Street, the main historical thoroughfare.  Kalgoorlie's culture celebrates its roots with annual events and festivals while nearby natural attractions, such as stunning salt flats and bushland, invite exploration. This lively sun-soaked town embodies the spirit of Australia's outback, attracting tourists, adventurers, and history enthusiasts alike. Following our visit to the Super Pit, we took a bus tour that followed Hannan Street, home to many of the building shown below.



Allora House Kalgoorlie
 Recreation Heritage Hotel
 York Heritage Hotel
Museum of the Goldfields Goldfields War Museum Exchange Hotel



Laslett Building
 Kalgoorlie Town Hall
 Historic Hannan Street


Kalgoorlie Town Hall
The bus stopped at Kalgoorlie Town Hall, the lower level of which contained a museum chronicling the region's involvement in the Great War.The interior is a grand restored Edwardian space showcasing gold rush wealth with ornate stamped metal ceilings, large chandeliers, a sweeping staircase and a majestic Auditorium with crimson velvet curtain. The key features includ the impressive proscenium arch, original theater rigging, and historic Council Chambers with period furnishings and memorabilia, all reflecting Kalgoorlie's civic pride and cultural history. The crown jewel of the city hall a a rare and famous theater stage curtain painted by Phillip Goatcher in the Tromp-l'oeil painting style. The curtain is a priceless work of art and is believed to be the last remaining working stage curtain of its kind in Australia. It depicts the Bay of Naples, a Neopolitan scene with Mt. Vesuvius in the background, and surrounded by tranquil water.



Goatcher Curtain
 Paddy Hamman Statue
 Town Hall Upper Level



Video of Kalgoorlie Town Hall

 There is a virtual tour of Kalgoorlie. Follow this link--the tour opens in separate window




Chunky Timber Company
Our tour of Kalgoorlie included one last stop, at the Chunky Timber Company. Kim "Chunky" Gent discovered his passion for woodwork in  Kalgoorlie 20 years ago and has called it home ever since. He collects and breathes new life into waste woods, capturing and embracing their character to create truly one-of-a-kind pieces. Chunky explained his techniques for reusing wood and took us on a tour of both the workshop area and the displays of his finished works. Everyone left with a sample of the Chunk Timber Company's handiwork. Below is a brief video snippet of Chunky in action.


"Chunky" Gent and the Chunky Timber Company



Back on the Train:
Returning to the train in the early afternoon, we set out for our evening destination, the town of Cook. In place of lunch, we were served high tea, an occasion that befit the atmosphere of the Indian Pacific dining car. It included savouries (kangaroo and parsley rolls, pumpkin and myrtle pasties, vegan sausage rolls) Sweets (mini cakes, carrot cake, caramel slice, blueberry friand) and, of course, drinks--Bollinger Special Cuvée NV Champagne and an assortment of teas and coffee. About five hours after departing Kalgoorlie, the train made a short stop at the nearly deserted town of Rawlinna. In addition to ferrying guests across the breadth of Australia, the train delivers mail to several isolated towns in the Nullabor.



From there we carried on through the evening. Never mind the high tea, that evening we gorged on a meal that offered an appetizer (duck and green peppercorn), a choice of three entrees (carrot and coriander soup, Freemantle octopus salad, smoked chicken pea and beetroot salad) and three mains (roasted pork tenderloin, grilled coorong Mullowy fish fillet, or roasted heirloom baby carrots with yorke peninsula lentils). And, since nothing succeed like excess, there was a cheese plate on offer, as well a choice of pistachio tart or strawberries and cream.






Pulling into Cook:
Cook, Australia is an eerie, isolated ghost town that stands almost frozen in time in the heart of the Nullabor Plain. Once a bustling railway settlement on the Indian Pacific rail line, it now has only a few remaining structures, abandoned and weather-beaten, serving as a quiet reminders of its former life. The empty buildings, crumbling walls, and scattered relics evoke a sense of haunting desolation, as the population has dwindled to just a handful of caretakers. We arrived in Cook well after dark, so there was no chance to visit the remaining buildings. The video below offers a tour of the town and its history.
A Brief History of Cook



  Stargazing:

We arrived in Cook late in the evening and disembarked from the Indian Pacific, following a small, well-lit path to a bonfire. Hot chocolate and more potent drinks were served around the campfire as Billy Bob, the musician who accompanied us on the train, regaled us with Australian songs. Following the entertainment, two of the Indian Pacific staff used a laser pointer to identify key constellations in the southern hemisphere. Although enlightening, our vision of the night sky was somewhat obscured by the pathway lights, as well as  the light emenating from the nearby train. A fun evening, but nothing like the views in Western Australia's bush. Below is a video snippet of the campfire entertainment. At around 11 p.m. we boarded the train as the Indian Pacific continued its journey toward our next stop, the Barossa Valley.